Alpinist in gorski vodnik

Mont Blanc

Junij, sploh pričetek ni bil lep kot zadnjih nekaj let, ko smo že pošteno zagrizli v stene in tudi v Alpah je bilo bolj slabo. Uredil sem si nekaj vodenja koncem maja in v začetku junija.

Cilj štirih angležev je bil Mont Blanc. Prve dneve smo porabili za aklimatizacijo v okolici koče Albert 1, nato pa naj bi jih z Andyem popeljala na Mont Blanc. A prav po povratku iz vzpona na Aig. Du Tour je v dolini začelo deževati gori pa močno snežiti.  Čez dva dni, ko se je vreme popravilo so se pokazali na debelo zasneženi vršaci. Pri koči Gouter je zapadel cel meter novega snega  in o vzponu ni bilo govora. Deževne dneve smo prebili v plezališčih, zadnji dan pa smo preplezali greben Cosmiques na Midi.

Ključno mesto grebena Cosmiques, v ozadju Gr. Jorasses

Doma sem nato kar dosti plezal, s Tinco sva bila nekajkrat v Triglavu, veliko tudi v plezališčih. Konec junija pa spet v Chamonix. Ko smo se prvi dan vozili proti dolini Val Savaranche je deževalo kot iz škafa. Ko smo zaprli avtomobilska vrata je dež prenehal, na poti do koče se je zjasnilo in naslednjih pet dni nismo videli oblaka. Tudi gneče na Mont blancu še ni bilo pretirane in razmer so bile odlične.

54 letna Marie, gorska vodnica iz Verbiera na grebenu Bosses

Nato sem še tri dni prebil z angleškimi klienti, ki so se želeli priučiti veščin za samostojno plezanje alpskih smeri do ocene AD. S kolegom Peletom sva tako pustila, da so sami plezali  300 m dolgo skalno smer z oceno V+ nad dolino Aoste, greben Cosmiques v Midiju in prečenje Aig.de Entreves  nad Hellbronerjem.

Midva sva plezala ob njih, nadzirala delo na stojiščih in svetovala.  Zanimivo in prijetno. Zadnji dan smo bili v dolini že ob 14 uri in na pozni večerji sem bil že doma.  Tista nepreplezana poč v Triglavu mi ne da miru…

1 comment

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