Alpinist & Mountain Guide

Curriculum Vitae

Date of birth: 24th of May 1970 Qualification: IFMGA NOTABLE ASCENTS Slovenia:

  • Many new routes in Julian Alps including the last new route (2009) in Triglav North Face; Miha Valic Memorial route (VIII+, 1000 m, 2009) and Ulina smer (7c, 1000 m, 2011)


  • Mont Blanc: Divine Providence (6b, A2-3, 900 m), 2001
  • Aig. du Dru: North Couloir Direct (VI, Al 6+, M8, 700 m), 2008

Dru Climbing in the Dru Couloir Direct

  • Aig du Pelerin: Beyond Good and Evil (V/6, 600 m), 2001
  • Pt. Jorasses: Omega (IV/ 6+, 700 m), 2006
  • Winter north faces of Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, 2007
  • Ben Nevis: Cornercopia (VII 9, 100 m), 2006

Sport climbing:

  • 8b Red Point
  • 7c On Sight

EXPEDITIONS: Tien shan 1995

  • Troglav (5510 m): Slovenian route (ED, 1000 m, new route in alpine style)

trog Slovenian route in Pik Troglav Daulagiri 1998

  • Daulagiri (8167 m), summit by the NW ridge

Gjachung Kang 1999

gjac Climbing in Siguang Ri

Cordillera Blanca 1999

  • Chacraraju (6001 m), Jaeger route (ED1, 650 m)
  • Copiqualki (6364 m): NW ridge

USA 2000

  • El Capitan, The Shield (VI, 5.9, A3+, 1100 m)

cap Bedroom in El Capitan

Ogre – Baintha Brakk (7230 m) 2001

  • Unsuccessful because of dangerous conditions

Patagonia 2002-3

  • North Tower of Paine: Los Esclavos del Barometro (6b, A2, 500 m, new route, alpine style)
  • North Tower of Paine: La Ultima Esperanza (6b+, A2, 500 m)

Patagonia 2003/04

  • Central Tower of Paine: Bonington – Willians (6a, A2, 650 m)
  • Fitz Roy: Franco- Argentine route (6b+, A0, 1000 m)

fint Evening view from the summit of Fitz Roy Trango 2004

  • Trango Tower (6251 m): Eternal Flame (6c+, A2, 1000 m) , first alpine style ascent to the summit
  • Trango Monk (5850 m): Chota Badla (6b, A2, 450 m), new route and first ascent of the mountain, alpine style
  • Great Trango (6287 m): Woolums – Selters (snow 50-80 deg , 1200 m)

eternalflame-below-shoulder1 Climbing Eternal Flame

Patagonia 2005

  • Cerro Almirante Nieto: Eolus (6c, 650 m); new route, alpine style
  • Inominatta: Corallo (7a+, A0, 600 m)
  • Ag. Mermoz: Hipermermoz (6c+, 650 m), first free ascent, alpine style

almirante Almirante Nieto: Eolus Ama Dablam 2005

  • Ama Dablam (6822 m): summit by the South East ridge


Patagonia 2006

  • Fitz Roy: Ensueno; (6b+, A1, 1700 m), second ascent to the summit, alpine style
  • Ag. Rafael Juarez: West Ridge Integral (6c+, 850 m), second ascent
  • Ag. St.Exupery: Claro di Luna (6c, 800 m)

ensueno Climbing Ensueno in Fitz Roy

Patagonia 2007

  • Fitz Roy: Los Ultimos Dias del Paraiso (6c+, A2, 1700 m), partial new route in the north face, alpine style
  • Ag. Guillamet: Polish route (6b, A1, 500 m), second ascent

fitz Early morning view of Cerro Torre from Fitz Roy

Alaska 2008

  • Mt Bradley: Season of the sun (VI/5+, M6+, 1500 m, second ascent)
  • Mooses Tooth: Ham & Eggs (V/4, M5, 900 m)

bradley In the south face of Mt. Bradley

Everest 2009

Summit as a guide

IMG_0558 Early morning view from the South ridge of Everest