{"id":74,"date":"2009-02-22T07:57:04","date_gmt":"2009-02-22T06:57:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/?page_id=74"},"modified":"2022-05-06T08:51:48","modified_gmt":"2022-05-06T06:51:48","slug":"cv","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/cv\/","title":{"rendered":"Curriculum Vitae"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Date of birth<\/strong>: 24th of May 1970 <strong>Qualification:<\/strong> IFMGA <strong>NOTABLE ASCENTS<\/strong> <strong>Slovenia:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Many new routes in Julian Alps including the last new route (2009) in Triglav North Face; Miha Valic Memorial route (VIII+, 1000 m, 2009) and Ulina smer (7c, 1000 m, 2011)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Europe:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Mont Blanc<\/strong>: Divine Providence (6b, A2-3, 900 m), 2001<\/li>\n<li><strong>Aig. du Dru<\/strong>: North Couloir Direct (VI, Al 6+, M8, 700 m), 2008<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-394\" title=\"Dru\" src=\"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/11\/Dru.jpg\" alt=\"Dru\" width=\"510\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/11\/Dru.jpg 510w, http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/11\/Dru-470x331.jpg 470w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/> <em>Climbing in the Dru Couloir Direct<\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Aig du Pelerin<\/strong>: Beyond Good and Evil (V\/6, 600 m), 2001<\/li>\n<li><strong>Pt. Jorasses<\/strong>: Omega (IV\/ 6+, 700 m), 2006<\/li>\n<li>Winter north faces of Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, 2007<\/li>\n<li><strong>Ben Nevis<\/strong>: Cornercopia (VII 9, 100 m), 2006<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Sport climbing:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>8b Red Point<\/li>\n<li>7c On Sight<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>EXPEDITIONS<\/strong>: <em><strong>Tien shan 1995<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Troglav (5510 m):<\/strong> Slovenian route (ED, 1000 m, new route in alpine style)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"trog\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/trog.jpg\" alt=\"trog\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/> <em>Slovenian route in Pik Troglav<\/em> <em><strong>Daulagiri 1998<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Daulagiri<\/strong> <strong>(8167 m)<\/strong>, summit by the NW ridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><em><strong>Gjachung Kang 1999<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/2009\/12\/06\/10-let-po-gjacung-kangu\/\"><strong>Gjachung Kang (7952 m)<\/strong>, Slovenian route (VI\/4, 2000 m, new route, alpine style)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><strong>Siguang Ri (7308 m)<\/strong>, Slovenian route (D+, 1200 m, new route in alpine style)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"gjac\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/gjac.jpg\" alt=\"gjac\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/> <em>Climbing in Siguang Ri<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Cordillera Blanca 1999<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Chacraraju (6001 m)<\/strong>, Jaeger route (ED1, 650 m)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Copiqualki (6364 m)<\/strong>: NW ridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><em><strong>USA 2000<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>El Capitan<\/strong>, The Shield (VI, 5.9, A3+, 1100 m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"cap\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/cap.jpg\" alt=\"cap\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/> <em>Bedroom in El Capitan<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Ogre &#8211; Baintha Brakk (7230 m) 2001<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Unsuccessful because of dangerous conditions<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Patagonia 2002-3<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>North Tower of Paine<\/strong>: Los Esclavos del Barometro (6b, A2, 500 m, new route, alpine style)<\/li>\n<li><strong>North Tower of Paine:<\/strong> La Ultima Esperanza (6b+, A2, 500 m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><em><strong>Patagonia 2003\/04<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Central Tower of Paine:<\/strong> Bonington \u00e2\u20ac\u201c Willians (6a, A2, 650 m)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Fitz Roy:<\/strong> Franco- Argentine route (6b+, A0, 1000 m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"fint\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/fint.jpg\" alt=\"fint\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/> <em>Evening view from the summit of Fitz Roy<\/em> <em><strong>Trango 2004<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Trango Tower (6251 m)<\/strong>: Eternal Flame (6c+, A2, 1000 m) , first alpine style ascent to the summit<\/li>\n<li><strong>Trango Monk (5850 m)<\/strong>: Chota Badla (6b, A2, 450 m), new route and first ascent of the mountain, alpine style<\/li>\n<li><strong>Great Trango (6287 m):<\/strong> Woolums \u00e2\u20ac\u201c Selters (snow 50-80 deg , 1200 m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"eternalflame-below-shoulder1\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/eternalflame-below-shoulder1.jpg\" alt=\"eternalflame-below-shoulder1\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/> <em>Climbing Eternal Flame<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Patagonia 2005<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Cerro Almirante Nieto:<\/strong> Eolus (6c, 650 m); new route, alpine style<\/li>\n<li><strong>Inominatta:<\/strong> Corallo (7a+, A0, 600 m)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Ag. Mermoz: <\/strong>Hipermermoz (6c+, 650 m), first free ascent, alpine style<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"almirante\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/almirante.jpg\" alt=\"almirante\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" \/> <em>Almirante Nieto: Eolus<\/em> <em><strong>Ama Dablam 2005<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Ama Dablam (6822 m)<\/strong>: summit by the South East ridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"ama\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/ama.jpg\" alt=\"ama\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Patagonia 2006<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Fitz Roy:<\/strong> Ensueno; (6b+, A1, 1700 m), second ascent to the summit, alpine style<\/li>\n<li><strong>Ag. Rafael Juarez:<\/strong> West Ridge Integral (6c+, 850 m), second ascent<\/li>\n<li><strong>Ag. St.Exupery:<\/strong> Claro di Luna (6c, 800 m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"ensueno\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/ensueno.jpg\" alt=\"ensueno\" width=\"500\" height=\"382\" \/> <em>Climbing Ensueno in Fitz Roy<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Patagonia 2007<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Fitz Roy<\/strong>: Los Ultimos Dias del Paraiso (6c+, A2, 1700 m), partial new route in the north face, alpine style<\/li>\n<li><strong>Ag. Guillamet: <\/strong>Polish route (6b, A1, 500 m), second ascent<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"fitz\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/fitz.jpg\" alt=\"fitz\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/> <em>Early morning view of Cerro Torre from Fitz Roy<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Alaska 2008<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Mt Bradley:<\/strong> Season of the sun (VI\/5+, M6+, 1500 m, second ascent)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Mooses Tooth:<\/strong> Ham &amp; Eggs (V\/4, M5, 900 m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"bradley\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/bradley.jpg\" alt=\"bradley\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/> <em>In the south face of Mt. Bradley<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Everest 2009<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p>Summit as a guide<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_0558\" src=\"..\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/02\/IMG_0558.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_0558\" width=\"510\" height=\"383\" \/> <em>Early morning view from the South ridge of Everest<\/em><\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Date of birth: 24th of May 1970 Qualification: IFMGA NOTABLE ASCENTS Slovenia: Many new routes in Julian Alps including the last new route (2009) in Triglav North Face; Miha Valic Memorial route (VIII+, 1000 m, 2009) and Ulina smer (7c, 1000 m, 2011) Europe: Mont Blanc: Divine Providence (6b, A2-3, 900 m), 2001 Aig. du [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":40,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/74"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=74"}],"version-history":[{"count":89,"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/74\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2894,"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/74\/revisions\/2894"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/tomazjakofcic.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=74"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}