Alpinist in gorski vodnik


…iz smučarja nazaj v plezalca.

Po prvomajskem plezanju v odličnem plezališču St. Leger v Provansi, sem že mislil, da je konec z letošnjim smučanjem a naneslo je, da smo se sredi maja odpravili v Alpe še enkrat, s ciljem smučati čim višje s pobočij Mont Blanca, še prej pa se aklimatizirati na Gr. Paradisu (4065 m). Štirje dnevi so bili nabiti z akcijo. Božo s sinom Grego, Igor ter midva s Tinco smo po vožnji  na severozahod Italije pristopili do koče Vittorio Emnuelle pod Gr. Paradisom v čudovitem vremenu. Žal je bil nasledni dan slabši kot je govorila napoved in večina ljudi je v megli in vetru obrnila nekaj sto metrov pod vrhom. Do samega vrha z Marijinim kipcem, smo ob navigiranju pritiščali le mi in navzdol grede pobrali italijanskega borderja, ki je že krožil po meglenem platoju.

Še isti dan smo se odpeljali v Chamonix, naslednji dan pa preko bosonskega ledenika do koče Grands Mulets. Ponedeljek 14. maj  je bil napovedan kot najlepši dan v tednu. In res, v mirni noči smo se vzpenjali po Arette Royal  v severni steni Aig. du Gouter. Sneg je bil trd, višje gori se je kazal tudi vodni led in plezali smo s smučmi na nahrbtnikih visoko pod vrh Gouterja. Za tovrstno početje imajo Italijani res dober izraz, Sci alpinismo, pol smučanje in pol alpinizem. Točno to je vzpon proti vrhu Mont Blanca.

Nekaj deset metrov pod vrhom Aig. du Gouter (4320 m) smo prečili na sedlo Dome, vreme idealno, brezvetrje. Kot privid so izgledale velike snežne zastave po grebenu Bosses. Pri bivaku Vallot (4383 m) pa veter ni bil več samo slutnja ampak realnost. Iz brezveterja malo nižje v orkanski veter s hitrostjo okoli 100 km na uro. Komaj verjetno. Prav nihče od 60ih, kolikor se nas je ponoči začelo vzpenjati ni niti pomolil nosu nad Vallot. Pripeli smo si smuči in odsmučali navzdol proti Grand Platoju. Le nekaj metrov pod sedlom Dome spet brezvertje, neverjetno. Smuka v čudovitem visokogorskem okolju in idealnem snegu, uležanem pršiču. Odlična smuka tudi vse naprej do srednje postaje gondole na Midi kjer smo zaključili letošnje smučanje.  Vrh nam je odpihnil veter a  smučanje smo dobili v celoti  (razen občasnih izjem…) in smučarsko, gorniško, estetsko neskončno uživali. Mont Blanc je res ena najveličastnejših smučarskih tur v Evropi.

Doma sem  na polno začel plezati v skali in se še kar hitro dokopal do 8a (1. del Active Discharge, Življenje..), običajnega maximuma kadar sem »debel« (ko imam 83 kilogramov). Za več bi bilo potrebno zategniti pas, po stari frikovski šoli…

V prvem tednu junija smo z Matjažem, Tinco, Urošem ob silni potrebi po alpskem skalnem plezanju ob edinem lepem dnevu odšli v Dolomite. Stena Tofana je bila, razne sestopa, že primerna za pležo kljub močnemu dežju in višje sneženju, na dan vožnje proti Cortnini. Z Urošem sva preplezala Spigolo Sam (6c, 500 m), Tinca in Matjaž pa eno od Da Pozzovih smeri v prvem stebru. Super za začetek gorskega, skalnega plezanja. Za kontrast se nas je zatem nekaj družin zmenilo za skupno počitnikovanje v Paklenici. Res prave počitnice, pet otrok srečnih do konca ob neskončni vodi, odrasli pa ob občasnem plezanju in večernem opravljanju. Super!

Za par tednov se preselim v Alpe, julij pa doma in naokoli z Ulo saj Tinca odhaja na odpravo v Kirgizijo.

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